Monday, March 9, 2020

Portuguese Settlement Malacca: Food Critic’s Review and Experience

When in Malacca (MALACCA'S LEGENDARY SITES), a visit to the Portuguese Settlement is a must. Established in 1933, this legendary spot preserves the traditions of Portuguese descendants who have lived there for centuries. The settlement stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Portuguese influence in Malaysia, dating back to the early 16th century when the famed explorer Afonso de Albuquerque captured Malacca in 1511. Albuquerque, a pivotal figure in the Age of Discovery, played a crucial role in establishing Portuguese colonial dominance in Southeast Asia.

Our late evening trip to the Portuguese Settlement was driven by a quest for its renowned food and a desire to experience the area's unique atmosphere. The settlement's historical importance is intertwined with the spice trade, which significantly shaped its local cuisine. The Portuguese, led by Albuquerque, sought control over Malacca as a strategic port in the lucrative spice trade routes between the East and West. This influence is evident in the fusion of Portuguese and local Malay flavors, creating the distinctive Kristang cuisine, a culinary heritage reflecting the profound impact of the spice trade on the gastronomic traditions of Malacca's Portuguese community.

Taking a cab from the hotel, we passed by modern houses as we entered the Portuguese Settlement. For those driving, there is a spacious open car park, and just across it, all the stalls line up in a single file, facing the sea. I expected some upscale eateries, but what greeted us were unassuming, open-air coffee shop-style stalls. Colorful lights gave a romantic dining vibe, complemented by plastic tables and chairs.

As soon as we stepped out of the cab, we were swarmed by stall staff, each trying to lure us to their assigned spot. It was quite a challenge getting away from them, as they were just doing their jobs in this competitive food business. Once we managed to escape the crowd, we walked along the side cemented pavement, close to the fenced area, and took a moment to admire the slowly fading golden sunset. Beautiful. Awesomeness! A golden moment in the Portuguese Settlement (OSAKA SUNSET, CAPE TOWN SUNSET & KERALA SUNSET). 

Next came the decision of which eatery to choose. We ended up at one of the stalls, persistently recommended by a lady who noticed us and approached with a smile. After reviewing the menu and placing our orders, we chose drinks from the nearby stalls: fresh coconut and fresh orange juice from the lady who approached us. 


Within ten minutes, our dishes arrived one by one. We sampled grilled black pepper brinjal, assam prawns, petai sambal, salted egg crab, and sambal baked fish. The dining experience in the Portuguese Settlement was notable, but unfortunately, the sambal baked fish was unpalatable due to the raw smell of the sambal, the salted egg crab lacked flavor, and the other dishes appeared rushed in their preparation.





The total came to around RM140. It may be prudent to seek recommendations from those who have dined here before or be prepared to experiment and take your chances. The Portuguese Settlement seems to have become a fixture on the tourist itinerary, evident from the steady stream of busloads arriving for a meal, with many already enjoying their food. As for me, I’m unlikely to return - not due to the food experience, but because there are other places where a true food critic might explore.

Note: The specific eatery or stall is not mentioned out of respect for the efforts of these small businesses. Public criticism could affect their survival in a competitive market.




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