Sunday, January 12, 2020

Varanasi - North India: The Sacred Ganges

Lady posing in traditional white attire, holding her scarf high by the Ganges River banks, North India
One more place to go for the day (VARANASI - EXPERIENCING SACREDNESS), and it’s said to be the best highlight: the Night Aarti at Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple (Golden Temple). Dedicated to Lord Shiva, Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple is one of the twelve holiest Jyotirlingas. Its golden spire stands out against Varanasi's skyline, symbolizing divine light. The night aarti, a revered ritual, draws devotees and tourists with its elaborate chants, hymns, and offerings, creating an atmosphere of profound devotion. Constructed in 1780 on the Ganges' western bank, Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple is a key stop on Varanasi's Heritage Walk, attracting thousands to its nightly ceremony.

Arriving by 7 pm, we followed our guide into the narrow in-roads, careful not to break the line of our tour group (COLOMBO DISCOVERY, MYANMAR ACROSS MAE SAI & CHENNAI AWAITED). The first thing I saw was the traditional burning of bodies, with flames reaching high. To tell you the truth, I felt a little terrified, my imagination running wild - what if one of the spirits followed me back to my room?

Solo sleeping in a hotel can feel like braving the unknown. Ohhhhh! I walked close to the temple but didn’t go inside. About 30 minutes later, we boarded a boat, joining hundreds of others to watch the night prayer from the water.

It was truly significant and mind-blowing, an amazing feeling as though I was floating in the water. Watching the Sandhya Aarti, seeing the temple lit up, and listening to the devotional songs also felt as though the sky was glowing, and the shimmer touching my soul. Strangely, those who had been to Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple never mentioned the night aarti to me. Did they experience it or not? Whatever the case, it’s a must-see, a true highlight of Varanasi.

Varanasi ghats at night, showcasing the ambiance and reflections along the Ganges River

When we returned to the Silk City Hotel for the night, we were informed of an early morning trip back to Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple to offer prayers for our ancestors or loved ones who have passed away. The plan was to leave around 5 am, and while half of the group agreed, I was taken aback. Such rituals are not really my thing. Instead, 

I headed to my room. The old furniture and fittings felt like a throwback, thankfully it was clean - a real blessing. I skipped dinner, took a shower, and kept all the lights on, even the bathroom light, as I always do when staying solo. I felt like a little chicken, haunted by the memory of the burning bodies at the temple. Clutching the Lord Ganesha statue I always carry and applying holy ash on my forehead, I managed to get about four hours of restless sleep.

Up by 7:00 am, I showered and headed down to the dining area. Breakfast in India typically means dosai, vadai, idli, and other Indian staples - a standard. Mmmm! 


Sightseeing was delayed as we had to wait for those who went for the early morning ritual prayers. Such hiccups! I waited in the lobby until everyone was ready. We then headed back to the Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple for a dip in the Ganges waters.

People walking down the steps for a sacred dip in the Ganges River at Varanasi
I opted out, not daring to consider the cleanliness of the water, despite assurances from the local guide that the practice of throwing burned bodies into the river had stopped. Dipping among a big group of people was still a no for me. As I stood around, I was hustled by traders with their sob stories. One, claiming he needed to pay for college, convinced me to buy some bindis. Again? Yes, bindis were the only thing he was selling. 
Tourists, locals, and traders near a Varanasi temple across the Ganges River



After the water dip, we took a boat ride on the Ganges for a wide view before getting down at Meer Ghat, across the river, where the Vishalakshi Temple, also known as Vishalakshi Gauri Temple, awaited us. Temple is dedicated to Goddess Vishalakshi, an incarnation of Goddess Parvati, revered as the "Wide-Eyed Goddess." As one of the 51 Shakti Peethas, it holds profound spiritual significance for devotees who believe that the earring of Sati, Shiva's consort, fell at this very spot. Visiting the Vishalakshi Temple provides an intimate glimpse into Hindu mythology and devotion, celebrating the powerful feminine energy of the goddess with deep reverence and joy.
Small outdoor altar at Vishalakshi Gauri Temple, North India
The temple was packed from the entrance, making it tough to maneuver inside. I walked around, smiled at the goddess, and left within five minutes, while the rest of the group stayed deep in prayer. My wait outside was quite long, as the group didn't want to leave the temple until the guide signaled to them. Once everyone came out, we walked down the lane, doing some window shopping and some making a few purchases from the shops. 
Walkway of Vishalakshi Temple lined with traders

Cotton Banaras sarees displayed in a street shop in North India
By the time we arrived at Taste Of Benaras Restaurant at 4 pm for lunch, we needed to quickly decide what to eat, and one of the few items they were ready to serve was tosai. We ate, or rather gulped down, the tosai before rushing to the airport for our flight back to New Delhi.

Before departing, I expressed my biggest thank you to our local guide, Mr. Ashok, one of the best guides I've encountered in all my travels, gave him a token of appreciation, and took a picture for remembrance. Bye-bye to Mr. Ashok and Varanasi.


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