Wednesday, August 7, 2024

Penang Food Guide: Seberang Perai Malay Food

Malay kuih-muih on a white plate: glutinous rice palm sugar rolls, and individual banana leaf wrapped sticky dough with sweet filling and steamed mash bananas. .
When Penang food is mentioned, Chinese cuisine often comes to mind, both on the island and in Seberang Perai (Mainland). This strong association is due to the long-established Chinese communities, particularly in George Town. From bustling hawker stalls to traditional coffee shops, Chinese food in Penang reflects its cooking heritage and a street food culture that has earned global recognition.

Malay food, on the other hand, is deeply rooted in the traditions of local communities, especially in Balik Pulau and Seberang Perai. Influenced by kampung (village) cooking and flavours from nearby northern states like Kedah and Perlis, Penang’s Malay food stands out with its own distinct identity and taste.

Coconut milk rice, spicy dip, fried anchovies and peanuts, plus half an egg, atop banana leaf, beneath is brown paper.
Malay Food in Seberang Perai

While most people think of Penang Island for food, Seberang Perai (the mainland) has its own share of authentic local spots worth exploring. From humble street stalls to simple eateries, including pasar pagi (morning markets) and pasar malam (night markets), you may not find fancy settings, but rain or shine, there’s always a queue.

 

Top food spots in Seberang Perai stretch across Chai Leng Park, Butterworth, Bukit Mertajam, Nibong Tebal, and Seberang Jaya. Still, don’t be surprised if you stumble upon a hidden gem. For avid foodies, it’s all about going, seeing, trying, experiencing, and of course, eating your way through Seberang Perai.

 

All Things About Malay Food in Seberang Perai, Penang
When it comes to Malay food, the list is long, with plenty of choices. In Seberang Perai, popular rice dishes include nasi lemak, nasi kerabu, and mix rice (nasi campur). For noodles, both fried and soup-based options include kari mee, mee rebus, laksa utara, and lontong. Grilled favourites include satay and ikan bakar. And don’t forget kuih-muih or pencuci mulut -  savoury or sweet, fried, baked, or steamed, like pisang goreng, onde-onde (ONDE-ONDE/KUIH BUAH MELAKA RECIPE) and pulut inti.

Silver trays with Malay style spicy dishes, and raw Malay salads as well.
Nasi Campur: Malay Mix Rice
Nasi Campur is a favourite meal, a spread of precooked Malay dishes where you choose what goes on your plate. From chicken and beef to seafood in rich gravies or Malay-style curries (kuah), it’s a go-to for rice lovers.

 

In Seberang Perai, like elsewhere in Malaysia, dishes are flavoured with local herbs such as lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, torch ginger flower, and turmeric leaves. Coconut milk is a common base, and chillies for spiciness. Favourites may vary according to foodies, but sure, you should try ayam goreng berempah (herb-fried chicken - AYAM GORENG BEREMPAH RECIPE), spicy fried fish, fish or even chicken masak lemak (coconut milk turmeric gravy), sambal tempeh ikan bilis, and kari ikan.


Don't miss the ulam (raw salad) with sambal belacan or cecah kicap (soy dip). You may also find dishes with rebung (bamboo shoots), petai (stinky beans), or tempoyak (fermented durian). Choosing what to eat can be the fun (and tough) part. Prices depend on your selection.

A plate of cooked white rice, green veggies and carrot stir fried, steamed okra, fried fish and spicy chili dip.
Nasi Kerabu
Amongst the Malay dishes, Nasi Kerabu showcases butterfly blue pea flowers or bunga telang. Nasi Kerabu, made with butterfly blue pea flower extract, is what produces the purple shade and adds the fragrance of the flowers. The rice turns out purple, but sometimes takes on a light blue hue depending on the amount of flowers and how it’s cooked (NASI KERABU RECIPE).

 

Generally, the standard items for Nasi Kerabu include fried chicken, thinly sliced cabbage, long beans and bean sprouts as the basic raw salad, a spicy dry coconut-based mix, and sambal. For a more elaborate version, there are add-ons like fried salted fish, boiled salted egg, and sometimes other items. The standard version is cheaper, whereas the one with more items will cost more.

Sliced herbs scented fried chicken, spicy flakes, sliced cabbage, spicy dip, half salted egg & blue pea flower rice.
Mee Kari: Curry Mee
Malay curry mee, or mee kari, is vibrant and bold in colour, with lots going on in one bowl. It’s rich and spicy because of the ingredients used for the curry and toppings. Some stalls use freshly ground spices, others go for ready-made curry powder, often enhanced with herbs,  lemongrass is a favourite. Coconut milk may or may not be added, but if it is, it gives a creamy texture and a hint of natural sweetness.

 

The noodles are usually yellow mee (hence the name), or sometimes bee hoon (rice vermicelli). Always check what the broth is made of if you don’t eat beef, as it’s sometimes beef-based. Meat choices include beef or chicken, and toppings can include tofu puffs, hard-boiled eggs, long beans, fish balls, or fish cakes. Sambal is usually served on the side or mixed in for extra heat. This is a much-loved dish at home-run stalls across Bukit Mertajam, Butterworth, and Nibong Tebal.

A bowl of curry mee, with egg noodles, spicy broth, half an eggs, flat tofu and chicken.
Satay
The most common types are chicken (satay ayam) and beef (satay daging), a popular Malay dish made of marinated meat skewered on sticks and grilled over charcoal. It’s eaten by holding the skewer and dipping the meat into a slightly sweet and spicy peanut sauce. Common sides include cucumber slices and onions, while nasi impit (compressed rice cubes) is usually charged separately.

 

Satay is usually sold at a stall outside a small restaurant or at roadside setups, often for takeaway. In Seberang Perai, it’s easily available, and you don’t have to go far to find it. Even a small eater can easily finish 10 sticks, depending on how thick the meat is. The peanut sauce is so tasty, you might even enjoy it on its own without the satay.

A tray of grilled chicken meat in stick skewers, a bowl of spicy sweet peanut sauce, sliced onion, cucumber and steamed rice cakes.
Kuih-Muih (Traditional Malay Cakes and Snacks)
How can Malay food ever be complete without the world-famous kuih-muih? In Seberang Perai, Malay heritage and eating culture are closely tied to these traditional treats. Common ingredients include palm sugar, coconut, pandan leaves (screwpine leaves), and a variety of flours such as rice flour, tapioca flour, and all-purpose flour.

 

Often colourful, bite-sized, or wrapped in banana leaves, kuih-muih are either steamed, fried, or baked. While some are made vibrant with food colouring, nothing beats the natural fragrance of pandan. Pisang goreng (fried banana) is a top favourite, and sometimes yam or sweet potatoes are used too, all dipped in batter and deep-fried until golden.

 

Karipap (curry puffs), fried popiah, and savoury bites also fall under kuih-muih, while sweet treats range from ondeh-ondeh, kuih talam, kuih kaswi, to kuih keria, the list is endless. Many are vegetarian-friendly, and today, even savoury ones come in meat-free options.

 

Standing in front of a kuih stall, with so many to choose from, it’s often hard to decide, and you’ll probably end up buying more than you can eat. That’s the irresistible Malay traditional cakes and snacks.

A fried & stuffed with potatoes snack, steamed palm sugar cake and two coconut milk sweet desserts in banana leaf wrap.

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